Knowing how to wash a camera lens is a top priority. Just a little bit of dust or dirt on your optics could cause all sorts of issues.

A good quality soft brush or air blower is ideal. Clean all of lens constantly, ensuring that the external moving parts are free from dust and mud, particularly sand which may cause lots of Problems and scratches.

A handy addition to your kit is a microfibre towel – essentially a super prime quality duster. It’s excellent for wiping moisture and muck off your kit and if you sling it over the top of your lens it can even keep your gear dry in light rain. Bike and car photographers regularly throw a chamois leather over camera and lens to protect them from flying mud.

When you take a lens off your camera always replace the front and rear lens caps immediately, to prevent knocks and scratches and keep dust down the optics.

It can prevent flare spoiling your pictures, but also protect the front element against impact damage. If you plan to shoot outdoors in wind and rain, get a purpose-built rain cover. be wary of rushing straight out of the cold into a warm place, as it could cause the internal lens elements to mist. Try and slowly acclimatize your kit; at the least open your camera bag, and keep it away from heat sources.

It’s best to invest in a screw-in skylight filter for every one of your lenses. They’re much cheaper to replace than a complete lens if you incidentally scratch it.

Taking beautiful pictures is my hobby and my passion. I hope the information you read here will help you take beautiful pictures. Check out my lens, Understanding Digital Photography!

Digital Camera Lens FAQ:

Question: Would you be able to use lens that fit the 35mm Canon A1 or AE-1 SLR cameras on a Canon Rebel XS 10.1MP Digital SLR Camera.

Answer: Unfortunately the answer is “No”. The A-1/AE-1 cameras us the older Canon “FD” mount and the Canon DSLR cameras use the “EF” mount. There is an adapter made to allow you to use the “FD” mount lenses on the “EF” mount bodies but with limited functions – manual focus and stop-down metering.

Question: Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens?
I am considering purchasing this lens for my nikon d40. I consider myself an amateur photographer and am wondering if I would notice a big difference in my photos with this lens compared to the kit lens. I’m not entirely sure on what the specs mean on the lens I want to buy, but as far as I understand the lower f number means its faster and allows more light in? Would my photos have better field depth?

Answer: The 50mm is a good lens for low light. Remember though no zoom at all. Want a closer shot you’ll be walking to get it – if that’s cool then go for it.

Depth of field is easy to get especially with a zoom lens at close range. Low light can also get good depth of field. But in reality the light really doesn’t matter because it’s all in the distance from you to your subject.

Question: Which camera lens should I get?
I have a Canon Rebel Xs (digital slr camera) and I’m wanting to buy a new lens for it. At the moment I have an 18-55mm IS lens, the image stabilizer is really helping me. I’m deciding whether to get a Canon EF 70-300mm IS USM lens, a Canon EF-S 60mm Macro USM lens, or a Canon EF 100mm Macro USM lens. I cannot afford the EF 180mm macro lens. At the moment I am taking photographs of flowers close up, portraits, night photos and small things. Also, I’ve taken some scenery shots but I’m not very good at capturing them from the best angle. With a new camera lens I want to be able to blur the background better, especially for portraits and close ups. I think if I get a macro lens (I think it is the better choice for my kind of photography) I will need to buy a tripod as well because the macro lenses don’t have image stabilizers, this is no trouble. Just wondering which lens I should get, and the differences between a 60mm and 100mm macro lens.

Answer: To blur the background you use aperture and depth of field. The lens does not matter. The 70-300 would be a great all around lens but may not be great for macro. If you want great macro then get the 100. The difference between the 60 and the 100 is you can be farther away from the subject for the lens to focus with the 100.

Question: Are all Canon EF Lenses Compatible with all Canon Digital Camera’s?

Answer: Yes. The EF series of lenses can be used with the older EOS Rebel 35mm film cameras, all of Canon’s “cropped sensor” DSLR cameras and the Canon full-frame DSLR cameras. The EF-S series of lenses can only be used with the “cropped sensor” Canon DSLR cameras.

Question: What is the best digital camera for wildlife photography?
I want to know about the lenses as well.

Answer: Digital SLRs are good for taking wildlife photography. Which one depends on your budget. If you can afford it get a full frame sensor camera like Nikon D700, D3x, D3s, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 1D Mark III but if you want to save money semi-pro level camera like Nikon D90, Nikon D300s or Canon 7D are great choice.

Good lens for wildlife photography for Nikon are 200-400mm f/4, a 300mm f/2.8, or a 500mm f/4. Or at an affordable price Nikon 70-300mm. For Canon good lenses are Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens, Canon EF 500mm f/4.0 L IS USM Lens, Canon EF 600mm f/4.0 L IS USM Lens, Canon EF 300mm f/4.0 L IS USM Lens.

Question: What kind of lens should I buy for Canon Digital Rebel Xti?
I’m more of a hobby photographer. I like to photograph things around me, like landscape and animals and people in natural settings. I’ve done my research and the Canon Digital Rebel Xti looks right for me. I’m not completely new to photography, but I’m new to these SLR cameras and I’m confused about what lens I should buy.

Answer: Start off with the 18-55 zoom lens offered with the camera. That is a great all-round lens. The wide is good for landscape, the telephoto can work well for portraits and these short zooms that are so often offered with the camera also do very well as close focus for macro photography for those occasions you want to fill the picture frame with just a small area. Use that lens to learn what you need.

Question: What do I look for in a digital camera to be able to take good close up photos?
I’ve had my last digital camera for about 8 years and I’m looking to upgrade. The one I’ve got now goes blurry if you’re anything closer than a metre from the subject. I’m no great photographer and just want a simple, cheap (under £150) camera to take holiday photos and close up photos of kids and pets. I’m looking online and I’m pretty baffled by some of the specifications listed. What do I need to look at to know whether a camera will take good close up photos? (is it to do with the zoom, the mega pixels, the lens size, or what?)

Answer: It needs a macro mode to take up close pictures.

Question: Where can I get my camera fixed?
I have a Casio Exilim digital camera. About 2 years ago I took it out of its case and found the lens to be broken, not cracked, but the lens will not come out when I want to take a picture. So I can’t take pictures! I called casio, and they want me to mail it to Philly so they can see what the damage is, then give me a price, then fix it, but I live in Columbus, Ohio and want somewhere local. Any suggestions?

Answer: Chances are it will cost you more to get it fixed than to replace it. Take it into a local camera shop (not one at the mall; look for one that’s been in business for 30 years or so in town), and ask them to assess it. Sad but true, these new cameras are built to be throw aways when they break.

Whether you’re a professional photographer or just a casual shutterbug, at some point you’ll find yourself looking at bags, trying to find the perfect one for a long trip. The requirements for a travel bag are a bit different than a standard bag you’d use to carry your camera and gear to a photography site for an afternoon. Although you’ll still want easy access and lots of room, you’ll be concentrating more on what makes a bag sturdy enough for traveling long distances.

If you’re going to be flying across country or hopping on and off trains, you’ll want a bag that makes it easy to cart your gear around when not in use. Since you’ll also probably be contending with luggage and a laptop, finding a selection of bags that make it easier to juggle everything is crucial.

Look for bags that are sturdy enough to haul everything you plan on carrying without sagging or wearing out too quickly. High density, closed foam dividers are an important feature. You won’t always be in complete control of your bags when traveling. Don’t let your equipment be damaged because someone on the plane manhandles your bag while they’re trying to cram their own carry on luggage into the overhead bin. Most travel worthy bags will be fairly large, but you do want to try out all of your gear inside it before you actually take it on a flight or train trip. Does it hold the heaviest equipment without straining at the seams? Is there sufficient cushioning around the outside edges to protect your camera in the event the bag is dropped?

Consider bags that feature a separate laptop compartment. Let’s face it; if you’re traveling with your camera, you’ll want your laptop along for the journey so you can download pictures any time you want. There are several really good camera cases that feature padded laptop compartments that you’ll really appreciate the longer you’re traveling. It’s one less bag to have to lug around between locations and keeps all of your sensitive gear in one bag, which is a bonus when going through airport security.

Rolling bags are very popular with frequent travelers because you can simply pull the bag along behind you rather than carrying it. It takes the strain off your shoulders and helps you breeze through airports and train stations without constantly bumping into others with your oversize camera bag. Look for rolling camera bags with adjustable handles to give you some versatility. Ball bearing wheels or swivel casters are both good options for a smooth ride and easy maneuverability.

One great option for photographers who travel a lot is to get a removable trolley, sometimes called a modular trolley, that works with your camera bags to convert a standard bag to a rolling camera bag. These usually come with an adjustable handle and fasten securely onto your current camera bags with Velcro straps. The beauty of these is that you can use any of your camera bags with it, so if you’re going on a long trip you can take that industrial sized camera bag, but switch to a smaller bag for a shorter excursion. You can easily detach the trolley and fold it up to stow in a luggage compartment or closet, then reattach it to any of your camera bags the next time you need it. It saves having to swap out your gear while on the road.

Once you’ve decided the key features you need for your next trip, be sure to compare features of several travel or rolling camera bags and then pick the one that seems right for you.

The author of this article knows all about camera bags. He has written many articles on camera cases using the vast experience that he has gained. He has also helped many people out there to buy the best camera bags. He knows the factors to be considered while choosing camera bags.

Camera Bags FAQ:

Question: Best bag for canon 450d and sigma 150mm-500mm lens?
I want to carry my camera plus two or three lenses one of them is the sigma 150-500 which is quite big. Has anyone have a bag that they use and would recommend. I also need to use this for air travel hand luggage so size and weight becomes important.

Answer: Yup, the Lowepro Fastpack 250. The bottom compartment fits my 400 & 50-500. Both camera body and lens are the same size as yours. My body has the grip on it, which means you will probably have a little more space than me.

Along side this there is usually space for a 430EX flash, 17-40 f4L and my wee accessory pack with spare batts, memory and remote. The bag also has a totally separate section for your packed lunch and maps. And a separate section for your laptop. And a strap pouch for your mobile. And a waistband so it doesn’t knacker your back. And its pretty compact.

Question: I want to make one digi bag to store my cameras & lenses. Any one who can help or guide for the above?

Answer: I suggest getting an old beat up backpack, and not advertise what you own. Also wrap a towel around the DSLR for anytime you may bump the camera. However, many companies make camera bags that look like “just a knapsack”. My favorite is the Lowepro Mini Trekker AW.

Question: What would be the best camera bag for my situation.?
What do you think would be the best camera bag to hold a: Nikon D40, Nikon D90, 50mm lens, 55-200mm lens, 18-55mm lens, 70-300mm, an sb-600 speedlight, and a few other minor accessories (filters, cleaning cloth, etc). Please try to give me suggestions which are under $70.

Answer: Obviously your choice of bag will depend on what works best for you.

Personally, I use an Tamrac Explorer 7, and carry roughly the same amount of gear as you have listed. It sounds like you are working to a budget, but bear in mind that if you buy something cheap now, it may not last you as long as something a little bit more expensive.

I’ve had my Explorer 7 now for 5 years and it’s still as solid as the day I got it.

Question: I have a friend who has a brand new Canon SLR Digital Camera, & I want to get him a bag. Which one do I get?
I want to get him a bag that has a lot of protection, so that he can be somewhat care free while carrying it. Would a camera backpack, or a camera bag be better, and what brands and models should I consider to be my top choices?

Answer: A backpack is very practical for someone who’s on the go. Lowepro are well known for their quality products. I love my Lowepro backpack. It’s very well made and has a good deal of padding and protection, plus when I’m wearing it, it can’t be unzipped from the back…making it safe for when I’m out and about.

I have the Flipside 200 and it fits my 450D and telephoto zoom lens and accessories perfectly. It also allows me to attach my compact carbon fibre tripod to the front. There are lots of other models and styles to suit everyone’s needs.

Question: What camera bag can fit a Canon 500D/ Rebel T1i with lens attached to it?
Currently I have the 18-55mm lens but will get an 18-200mm sooner or later. I will also need space for some batteries, cards, and other little accessories.

Answer: Really any backpack type camera bag can do that. I use a generic backpack (under $35) and have two DSLR’s with lenses attached and two additional lenses with still room for more if I needed it.

Question: Is it ok to leave a SLR camera in the car most of the time in a camera bag?

Answer: That depends on a couple things. First, how’s your climate? If you have extremes in temperature either way, that could harm your camera. It’s usually the heat that’s bad, but I had a GPS ruined by leaving it in my car in the dead of winter. Electronics don’t like extremes.

And second, how safe is your area? People break into cars all the time. Hiding it under a jacket or in a plastic bag won’t be good enough. Thieves know where to look. If your car is stolen, you’ve lost not only your camera too, but all your pictures.

I wouldn’t risk it for very long.

Question: What is the best way to store an SLR camera and lens?
I just got a Nikon D3000. I love it but I’m really picky about keeping things nice and clean but want the camera to be best protected. I’m new to the SLR scene, Should I store the camera with the lens in the camera bag attached or separate?

Answer: Keep it attached. That way the camera will spend as little time as possible without a lens. The longer the front is exposed, (w/o a lens, or a body cap) the more chance there is to get dust on the sensor. So keep your primary lens on the camera to avoid getting dust on the sensor. When you are not using your camera / lens, store them in an airtight box with a bag of desiccating agent to keep the inside of the box dry at all times.

Question: I’m looking for a Canon 1000d Sling bag. Any suggestions, need to buy one for my camera?

Answer: Check out Lowepro. They have sling bags. They also have shoulder bags and others to choose from. I have a Lowepro shoulder bag and it is great. I have the Nova 170 AW.

Getting a lowepro camera bag is the best thing to do for keeping your expensive cameras safely. Lowepro is one of leading manufacturers of camera bags and protective camera cases in the camera accessories market. They have a huge collection of digital camera bags and other related accessories. The bags from the brand are designed specifically for latest digital cameras. They are the best available options for the sports and news photographers. The latest Stealth Reporter D-Series bags from the brand is a highly sought after in the market.

The main unique feature of the bag model is the top zipper that is water-resistant. This feature offers the photographers easy as well as quick access to their camera gears to help them in capturing extraordinary photos. The photographers often get just a split second to act and this feature allows them to make most out of this second. The latest camera bag models include Stealth Reporter D550 AW D400AW, D200AW, D300AW, D100AW and D650 AW. The D550 AW is equipped with a notebook computer compartment too.

The workflow of a new age digital photojournalist requires him to have a great camera bag. The bag must not only protect the camera gear but also offer the features that allow him to take great pictures. The Stealth Reporter AW Digital bag model includes many features for allowing the photographers to access their camera gear even in the worst conditions. These bags are densely padded with a completely adjustable divider system.

The various models offered by the brand not only allow photographers to organize the bag to the exact camera carrying requirements but also to accommodate the number of digital accessories required for taking great photographs. The models come with a deluxe shoulder strap that has swivel metal clips. In total, a lowepro camera bag is fully equipped to provide the user with a complete photographic experience.

To read about Camera backpack and other information, visit the Crumpler camera bag site.

Lowepro Camera Bag FAQ:

Question: Who makes a better camera bag: Lowepro, Cuscus or Zeikos?
I have been looking at the Lowepro Slingshot 200 and the Flipside 300 but Cuscus and Zeikos make similar looking bags for half the price. However, I don’t want to end up with a cheap bag that falls apart on me after 3 months. I have a Canon Rebel, and will eventually have more lenses too. So I would like a solid bag to keep it all in, but don’t want to blow a lot of money either.

Answer: I’ll say that Lowepro is the more well known brand, but not necessarily mean the best. The Cuscus and Zeikos bags can keep your rebel. But if you’re gonna get many lenses, I suggest you look at camera bagpacks as well.

Question: Is Lowepro Edit 120 camera bag a good bag for Canon XSi? Or is the bag too small for it?

Answer: No, I think the Edit 120 is much too small. It’s designed more as a compact video camera bag.

Lowepro have lots of other suitable bags or backpacks for dSLR storage. I use the Lowepro Flipside 200 backpack for my 450D (XSi). It’s fairly slim and compact, very well padded for protection and allows plenty of room for camera with long lens attached, as well as plenty of storage for other lenses and accessories. It also allows me to attach my compact carbon fibre tripod to the front.

However, if you don’t want to use a backpack, there are a number of other bags available. e.g. Cirrus, Rezo, Nova, Toploader, etc. etc.

Question: What kind of camera bag to get for new Nikon ?
I got a Nikon D40 for christmas and a lowepro camera bag to go with it, but it seemed to snug and I decided to return it and get a new bag with more space. It fit my camera, but I couldn’t figure out how extra lenses would fit in there, which it says it does, and it was hard to get the strap in once the camera was in in order to zip it shut.

I was wondering if anybody who owns a nikon camera has a bag that works well with the camera along with extra pieces? I just want a bag that is bigger with more room for other camera parts.

Answer: Problem is I don’t know what you really want. It’s a very personal item to choose. I may not like certain kind of bag, but it may be your best choice. An important thing is knowing what you want, for what and how.

The best way of choosing a bag is looking at manufacturer sites, compare them and visit the camera store (for buying or for seeing what they’ve got there). Buying it online without having seen it or tried it is a bit risky. I find tamrac and lowepro bags very good and with a good price.

Question: Searching best camera bag with big waist strap/ opens from the back?
I found some lowepro bags like that, lowepro flipsides and compuprimus but really nothing else. I think opening from the back make things more convenient. Anyone know any brand names such camera bags? (I have a 5d mark ii, 70-200, 24-70 and a couple of primes)

Answer: I really like the Lowepro Flipside backpacks. There’s the 200, 300 and 400AW models available. I have the 200, because it suits my needs perfectly. I like how it opens from the back (makes it safe when you’re out and about) and allows easy access while wearing it. You can also attach a tripod to the front. I think the 300 would suit you.

Question: In dslr camera bags, which is better, lowepro or vanguard?

Answer: No idea about Vanguard but I can recommend Lowepro. I find the built-in rain cover useful.

Question: Will a 9″ netbook fit inside a LowePro Slingshot 200 AW bag, while still leaving room for a camera and lenses?

Answer: That bag does not have a slot for a notebook computer, 9″ or any size. Look for one that is designed to carry a notebook computer as well as your cameras and lenses.

Question: Which camera bag is better?
I have a Nikon D40 with the kit lens. But I am looking to buy another lens hopefully. I’ve narrowed my choices down to 2 bags. Both are by Lowepro. Either the Adventura 170, or the Nova 170 AW.

Answer: Nova 170 AW is a better choice.

Question: Lowepro Fastpack or Lowepro Flipside?
I ran out of space in my Lowepro camera bag so I am upgrading to a full backpack. Additionally, my bag has become uncomfortable to carry on hikes (even very short hikes). I don’t know if I want a Fastpack or a Flipside. The Fastpack has greater storage which is the reason I am upgrading overall. The issues is that the Flipside can carry a tripod as well. I carry my tripod with my constantly.

Answer: Both are great packs but it kinda depends on how you want/need to carry your gear. I wanted to be able to quickly access my camera without having to stop and take the bag off my back. The FastPack 350 has a side access door that lets me easily and quietly access my 40D or 7D with a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens mounted (hood reversed). It also accommodates my laptop so it works well for me as a travel bag and for hikes. The one thing it does not do is allow you to secure a tripod to the bag. I typically hike with a monopod that I also use as a walking stick so this isn’t a problem for me.

If securing the tripod to your pack is a priority, you obviously know the Flipside has a tripod holder built into the bag. So this may be the deciding factor for you. My issue with packs like the Flipside is that you’ve got to stop to dismount the bag, set it down, and then open what amounts to a large clamshell. If you are headed from point A to point B and have no desire or plans to shoot anything in between this is not a problem. But typically, while hiking, I may just happen to see something that catches my eye and it may only be there for a moment. This is where the Flipside falls down for me. Your priorities and decisions may be different.

Crumpler is one of the best travel bags and purse manufacturers. They also make camera bags. One will surely need a certain bag to take certain items safe and secure. If you are looking for good camera bag, Crumpler as Camera are the way to go.

Crumpler camera are suitable for almost all the famous and high priced cameras out there. These bags look fancy, compact to carry and durable with regard to the changing weather. They have various models for various types of cameras. From the biggest to the smallest ones, they have a bag that will suit it perfectly. Crumpler also have various attractive features in addition. Crumpler bags can also hold your various handy items like passports, your wallet, card holder, ipods, mobile phones and various small items that you will be carrying along when you travel or go for an outing. Almost all the camera bags are water resistant and dust resistant.

Each Crumpler camera is made with really fine material to give it a great finish that looks really good. camera bags also come in various colors to choose from. So you can make a good choice that suits your taste and have a safe bag for your valuable camera that saves your precious moments in life. So make a wise choice on choosing a good travel bag for your camera. When you plan to travel make sure you have this bag for a happy traveling.Crumpler camera are suitable for almost all the famous and high priced cameras out there. These bags look fancy, compact to carry and durable with regard to the changing weather.

The simplest way of getting a single Camera accessories connection to work with two compatible devices is using Digital camera accessories products.

Crumpler Camera Bag FAQ:

Question: Where can I find a camera bag that doesn’t -look- like a camera bag?
I have been searching around the internet to find a SLR camera bag to use with my Rebel XT. I have the lense kit, and a 50-300mm lens. Basically, I am only 17. I want a camera bag that looks like a 17 year old. I don’t want some ugly black bag that screams ‘photographer’! I have seen crumpler bags, and those are much more along the lines of what I am looking for, but they are a tad expensive. Does anyone know of any other camera supplies companies that provide alternative camera cases that are stylish but also functional?

Answer: I think that if you are going to take photography seriously and care about your bags appearance, the crumpler bag is a good investment. I just received mine in the mail and I love it. Ive been searching for something similar, but nothing comes close. $100 or so bucks is nothing compared to the prices of the lens you might by for your 350D.

Question: Help me pick one: Lowepro Nova 140 AW or Crumpler $4 million home bag?
I have Nikon D40 with 18-200mm VR …no other lens…just wish to carry this and of course the hood, battery charger with cable, 2 filters, and a usb card reader.

Answer: I’d go with the Lowepro. So it looks like a camera bag. Any serious thief knows what the other bags look like, too, so they know what to steal. Wear it over your head with the bag hanging by your waist in the front and a little to the side, and you can rest your arm on it and hang onto the strap, too.

Question: For Canon 40D + 18-55 lens – Crumpler 3 Million or 4 Million bag?
Any idea whether I should buy a 3 Million Dollar home or the 4 Million Dollar home camera bag? I don’t want any room for extra lens, but I want to be able to get the camera in/out easily.

Answer: I have a 3 million, and it hold a 10D+17-85 just fine, or a Nikon D80+18-200. It fits in without having to force it, there is adequate room between the camera and bag.

On a side note, if your 18-55 is the f/3.5-5.6 lens, then upgrade that! I have used many cameras and many lenses, and that is one of the worst lenses I have had the displeasure of using. If it is the f/2.8, then more power to you. It is not worth it to get such a good camera body, and then waste all of that capability by crippling it with a poor lens. I would recommend the 17-40 f/4 as a walkaround lens that doesn’t cost too much, while delivering great quality. Or, get the 17-85 USM, if you don’t mind variable aperture.

Question: Camera Bag for Powershot SD850IS?
I recently bought SD850IS and currently looking for a camera bag for it. I looked at Crumpler Thirsty AL. The M size seemed too small. and the interior could scratch the LCD screen. I am looking at LowePro Ridge 10 on the site but undecided yet. Can anyone suggest a good camera bag for this camera? If you own SD850IS, which camera bag did you get for your 850IS?

Answer: Get a lowepro d res 10 AW – the AW is all weather.

Question: Crumpler 4 Million Dollar Bag and Gorillapod SLR?
Does anyone know if a SLR camera and a Gorillapod would fit in the Crumpler 4 million dollar home?

Answer: It should be a very tight fit. That bag has a 20cm tall compartment with space for the camera w/ attached lens and extra space for one additional lens… or a flash… or indeed, a squished up Gorillapod. When laid out flat, the Gorillapods (there are 2 versions for a dSLR) are 25cm.

Question: Good DSLR backpack or bag?
I’m looking around for a good camera bag for a nikon DSLR. I prefer a backpack because that alows me to carry other stuff around like water bottle etc etc. Any suggestions? And what about crumpler bags, they look great but are they worth the price?

Answer: Look at a Lowepro Slingshot or Tamrac Velocity. They each come in 3 or 4 different sizes and allow you to wear them on your back, then quickly swing them around to the front to pull out your camera.

There are dedicated camera backpacks, but you always have to find a flat place to lay the pack down. Then you have to completely unzip it to get at your camera. If you want one of those, try the Tamrac Adventure or Expedition series. Lowepro also makes an excellent series, as does Tenba.

Traditional camera case will leave you with an aching shoulder on long trips or hikes.

Question: Which colour should I get?
I am getting my dslr camera next week and am anticipating on getting a Crumpler bag. Which colour should I get?

Answer: Definitely red, makes a statement.

Question: What camera bag would you recommend for me?
I’m looking for a travel backpack where I can keep my camera, laptop, & other small stuff (like water, purse, phone etc) whilst travelling. I was considering the Lowepro CompuRover AW, but have seen it and it is quite big. Another one I considered was the Crumpler Sinking Barge model – however, there doesn’t seem to be a tripod holder on the bag. The build quality however, is excellent. I’ve read that this bag isn’t all the comfortable??

Has anybody had experience using these backpacks for a whole day? Was it comfortable? I’m 5′4″, so I need to find something that fits my frame as well as equipment!! Recommendation appreciated!

Answer: If these two bags are your only considerations, its really important to stop to think about what kind of traveling you will be doing. I personally believe that the Lowepro CompuRover is a much sturdier and well constructed backpack that has more than enough room for the equipment you plan to be carrying (which can be a good and bad thing). It has a lower support brace that really takes the weight off the top of your shoulders and helps if you are shooting off the paved road because your bag wont swing around as you go. The tripod holder is useful, but to be honest I never got to using it more than a couple times, preferring to carry my tripod instead as a balancing tool when walking/hiking to shoots. I’ve personally never encountered a situation where i’ve needed the weather proofing, but its comforting to know that its there

The crumpler is a great bag too, but much more tame in comparison, none of the bells and whistles that lowepro has always been known to throw in. Should you still choose pick up the 70-200, it should still fit into the bag fine, and being that you are 5′4″, this may very well be the better choice of bags for you. The lowepro is large by any standards

If you want the best of both worlds, Lowepro has another line of backpack called the compudaypack that a friend of mine uses. Very roomy, but cuts back on a lot of the ruggedness the rover has. Its also significantly cheaper I believe.

If you’re an avid photographer, you probably have at least two camera bags tailored to the specific needs of the day or event you’re shooting. While almost no bag can hold everything, there are a few items that are found in most camera bags these days. If you want to protect your gear, get some great shots and have the right tools to cope with unexpected changes, take heed and consider tucking these items in your own bags.

1. Extra batteries and/or a battery charger. You may think your camera has plenty of battery life left, but you don’t want to find out you’re wrong when you’re shooting a wedding or you’re staring at a phenomenal sunset. Extra batteries are your best bet, but a charger is a good idea as well if you know you’ll have access to a power supply.

2. Memory card. Your camera can hold hundreds of pictures, but more than one photographer has had an unexpected opportunity pop up. Don’t doom yourself to brooding about the shot that got away because you used up your memory on a planned photo shoot and then happened upon a perfect opportunity to catch some action shots. It’s enough to make a grown many cry to realize a lack of memory is the one thing between him and the photo of a lifetime. Camera bags have plenty of room for one or two memory cards. They just don’t take up that much space.

3. Good lens cloth. How many pictures have you been disappointed in because of dust, pollen, fingerprints or moisture on the camera lens? Nothing cleans a lens properly except a top quality lens cloth. Be sure you tuck two or three into a corner of each of your camera bags so you’re never without them.

4. Mini tripod. Action shots, changing lighting conditions, and the need to zoom in are just a few reasons you might want a mini tripod. You can find some sturdy models that will easily fold into average sized camera bags for less than $100.

5. Plastic bags or a rain cover. There are really cool camera covers you can use on rainy or drizzly days, but a plastic bag with a hole for the camera lens works just as well. You’ll love having plastic protection available when you’re photographing the surf, taking pictures in damp environments, or even standing near a fountain. Not every photo opportunity is planned. Don’t miss a shot because you left your only rain cover in one of your other camera bags.

6. Dessicant. This is the drying agent you often find in the bottom of jars of pain relievers. You can buy dessicant pads at camera supply shops or go cheap and steal several from aspirin and vitamin bottles. Toss the dessicants in the bottom of your camera bags to keep moisture from building up in them.

7. Extra lenses. Never assume you won’t need a particular lens. You may have planned to shoot some very specific pictures, but you should also expect the unexpected. Any time you have some room in your camera bags, an extra lens or two will give you more range and great opportunities for unique shots.

The author knows how to recognize a quality camera cases. He has chosen professional camera cases with ease. Now he uses his extensive knowledge about the camera cases for writing articles. His articles are like guides to choose the best professional camera cases available in the market.

Camera Bag FAQ:

Question: What camera bag do I need?
I’m purchasing a DSLR camera. I need a bag. Is it OK and safer to use a Shoulder type bag or backpack camera bag? I don’t want to pin the camera when I’m using a backpack.

Answer: If you intend to lug around the bag for a whole day of shooting, forget the shoulder bag, no matter how well they say they design the shoulder strap, it’ll still be a pain.

Get a backpack, a good one, especially if you have a lot to carry around. Best if you can try them out first, it’s comfy for some and terrible for others, depends on your body. If trying out first is not possible, I’d say stick with Lowepro or Think Tank photo brand.

Otherwise, check out some waist bag, they’re good balance on everything.

Question: What is difference between itsy bitsy bag and camera bag?

Answer: Not much difference at all. The camera bag is a little more sturdy and maybe bigger.

Question: Is there a good case/bag that I can put my camera in while snowboarding?
I want to take some pictures at or near the peak but don’t want to damage my camera. Any suggestions?

Answer: Dakine makes a couple of great packs for cameras. If you don’t want to buy an entire backpack, you can just get the camera block and it fits in almost any backpack. I would however recommend getting something from Dakine though. Their stuff is really well built and durable.

Question: Camera bag suggestions?
I need a camera bag for my d90, 3 lenses, cards, and other whatnots.

Answer: Anything by Tamrac or Lowepro. The Crumpler’s kind of “fashionable” if thats your thing. Best bet is to go to a camera store and see which one fits you!

Question: Best camera bag? Need soon!?
I just bought a new Canon XSI and I’m looking for a bag or case for it. I would prefer not to go over $40 as money is a little tight this time of year and I broke my last bag. However, I don’t need it to be to big but I would like it to be able to hold like 2 lenses and the camera. I’m really hoping I can find a bag with a “quick draw” area to store the camera with an attached lens.

Answer: You should check out the bags at a local camera store. The only way to really know if a bag will work for you, besides buying it and trying it is to really check it out in a store before you buy it. That way you can see if there is enough room and if it will hold the equipment the way you want. I would look at bags that have a little extra room because you never know when you might pick up another lens or a flash or other equipment and you don’t want to be looking for another bag immediately after buying one.

Question: How can I convert a regular bag into a camera bag?
I just bought a new bag for my laptop and I just found the exact same bag but this one is a “weekender”. I was thinking about buying it and somehow making it into a camera bag. I’ve heard about some people (girls) that just can’t find a more “girly” camera bag so they transform a bag they like into a camera bag, but how can I do that!?

Answer: I bought a cheap backpacks on wheels, because I didn’t want to attract attention with an expensive looking camera bag. I glued three layers of foam together, cut out the shape of the bag to make it a tight fit, then cut holes for my camera, each lens, the flash etc. Now everything sits very snug and secure in the bag.

Question: Looking for Cheap camera bag?
Looking for a cheap $20-$30 camera backpack. Received my first d-slr Rebel T1i kit + extra Lens. Looking for a cheap camera bag that will fit my lenses soon when I upgrade. Can be stylish like the naneu camouflage camera backpack bag but they are discontinued.

Answer: Depending on the size you need Tamrac is a good brand. I have one and really like it – lots of room for gadgets.

Question: What camera bag is best for a first time DSLR user that is traveling abroad?
I just purchased my first DSLR camera (Canon EOS 400D). I am going on a trip to Vietnam and want to know what is the best way to travel with my camera. I don’t want anything to big like most of the camera backpacks I have seen.

Answer: There is no “best” camera bag. Go to the store and look at them. Whatever seems best to you is the one you should get. It should be well-made, because you don’t want the stitching to fall apart. All the hardware, such as snaps and zippers, should be high-quality. It should be easy to open, and it should close securely. It should be big enough to hold your equipment, and not too much bigger.

And finally, remember that cameras that are inside bags don’t take pictures. If you’re serious about photography, keep the camera around your neck most of the time, not in the bag.

It came time recently for me to buy a tripod (my Christmas gift from my wife). So I started the research online and quickly discovered that I did not know squat about tripods. I knew I wanted a strong and light tripod. My old one was an aluminum leg, very inexpensive (under $40) tripod that I have used for the last eight years. It worked, but it was a little heavy and it was not the most sturdy tripod. I sometimes had to brace it against my leg to keep it from shaking and forget about using it in the wind.

I soon learned that you can have a sturdy tripod, you can have a light tripod and you can have cheap tripod, but you can only have two the three with the “cheap” part going out the window first. Scott Kelby and Joe McNally (two of the best photographers that I follow) recommended Manfrotto Carbon Fiber legs (around $375) and a Really Right Stuff Ball Head (that is the thing on the top that moves and rotates and holds the camera) (another $350+) for a total of over $700. Well I don’t know about you, but that is still out of my budget so I had to go looking for some options, not quite as good, but a lot less expensive.

First, we need to look at when you need a tripod.

1. You need it when it is getting dark or in other low light.
2. You need it when your shutter speed is slower than one divided by the focal length of your lens (oh no, math-see examples below).
3. You need at tripod If you are going to enlarge your photo a lot.

The first issue comes when you need to capture a lot of light in aperture and also need a slow shutter speed and high ISO.

The second bullet describes the shutter speed math as an example of a standard 50 mm lens needing more than 1/60th without tripod and on a 500 mm telephoto lens you would need to be 1/500 or faster. The logic is that the longer lens magnifies any vibration in the camera or the way you hold it.

The last is that large enlargements will bring out any little imperfections, including camera shake at the high magnification.

There are two kinds of tripod heads: ball heads and pan heads. The ball head is simplest and provides a full range of movement for your camera. If you tend to shoot quickly or at moving objects you will like a ball head. With pan heads you have multiple locking levers that adjust the pan in different planes of movement to allow you to move the camera on the tripod. Pan heads are quite useful for panoramic shots. The trade-off is speed, it takes more time to unlock and adjust the levers than with a ball head.

For the legs of the tripod you are limited to aluminum or carbon fiber. The aluminum is fairly strong, but compared to the stronger carbon fiber. Aluminum is heavier and carbon fiber is far more costly.

I came down to two options. I wanted a carbon fiber leg and chose a pan head. Because cost was a factor, my budget was in the $150 to $220 area (sorry Scott and Joe). I would love to have one of those $700+ babies, but its just not in the cards until I win the Lottery. I first chose to reject the component tripods where you buy the legs from one company and the heads from another. I wanted an integrated leg/head setup.

My first option was the Sunpak – Pro 523PX 64″ Tripod sold on Amazon and at Best Buy. It featured a 64″ inch reach and collapsed down to 12″. It weighed in at 4 lbs. The pan head was controlled by a pistol grip mechanism that seemed very slick. It retailed for around $199.

My other option was the Rocketfish 65″ Carbon Fiber kit, It reached up to 65.5″ and weighed in at 5.8 lbs. Rocketfish is owned by Best Buy which sells their tripods exclusively. It listed at $ 150.00. So it came down to one unit that was slightly lighter and more expensive. The other unit was very solid with a sturdy feel and smooth moving levering that tilted to allow both portrait and landscape modes.

Both units would work for me and were within my budget. The Sunpak had a that very cool pistol grip mechanism and the Rockfish seemed more solid. What sold it was the Christmas sale at Best Buy that dropped the Rockfish down to under $120. Well, sometimes you just have to buy the most economical. These are not the only good and reasonable tripods on the market. I urge each of you to do your own research and learn from what you have read on Ezine articles.

Randall Jackson (known to his friends as Randy) is an experienced Arizona photographer. His photography is about nature and events such as sports. He writes about photography and technology on his blog and displays his work at a photography site. More information can be gleaned about Randy at his blog: http://randyonphotography.com.

Tripods FAQ:

Question: What is a good tripod for my Nikon d3000?
And can tripods shoot at odd angles?

Answer: How much do you want to spend? I would recommend looking at bhphotovideo.com. They’re a camera place in NYC but sell a lot online. It was recommended to me by other Nikon camera owners and since then I have gotten all my camera stuff there. I recommend getting a tripod that is lightweight otherwise it will be a pain lugging it around. Tripods can shoot at all kinds of angles once you know how to adjust them.

Question: How do you take good pictures without a tripod?
I don’t have a tripod and I was wondering how I could take pictures as good as if I had a tripod.

Answer: As long as you are only taking one photo (not attempting to take a series of shots to compile as a HDRI image) and the shutter speed is at least 1/500th second, you may not see any blur in the subject when hand holding the camera during the exposure unless you enlarge the image into massive prints.

Of course placing the camera on a sturdy surface will accomplish the same thing as a tripod if you do NOT bump the camera when you press the shutter release. This possibility can be eliminated by using the cameras self-timer or a remote shutter release.

Question: Need suggestions for a tripod to shoot at vertical angles in a reasonable price range?

Answer: “Reasonable price range” means different things to different people. I can’t tell you exactly who makes what for how much but here’s what you want to look for.

The camera post on the tripod should have threads at the top AND bottom. When you want to shoot at a perfect 90 degrees you remove the panhead from the top threads and attach it to the bottom threads. Your camera will now attach to the tripod from the bottom. Position your tripod directly over your subject and adjust the panhead to get your vertical shots. I have 2 tripods which can do this.

Question: I want to buy a tripod for my Canon 450D but I’m not sure which one to buy?
I’ll mainly be taking pictures of people but I will be taking some other shots as well. I need something that can fold down quite small and fit in the boot of my car.

Answer: I use a couple of tripods and the brands are Manfrotto for my regular tripod (metal construction) and for travel I use a carbon fiber Feisol tripod.

Question: Would any Camera Tripod work for the Kodak Zi6?

Answer: Yes, all camera and tripod mounting screws are standard size. If you have any doubts at all take your camera to the store of your choice, see if it will mount to the display model.

Question: Which is the better tripod? Velbon C-400 vs. Soligor T157?
So my family bought me a tripod. My mom gave me the option of two: Velbon C-400, Soligor T157. The Velbon was 30 more dollars than the Soligor but I am wondering which is better overall, quality, emblishments, etc. I usually do nature photography and have a Canon Powershot SX200. Any help?

Answer: For a Powershot it probably doesn’t matter much. When choosing a tripod you want to check the weight rating (that is not an issue with a compact camera) and the height. If it is too short you will be uncomfortable using it. And all tripods are more stable without the center column extended so you want it to be tall enough without extending it.

A hook is good because you can hang your camera bag or something from it to make the tripod even more sturdy. I like a quick release system, which most tripods have.

Question: What happens if you leave VR on while on a tripod?

Answer: VR can actually cause a blurry picture by it’s own motion when on a tripod.

Question: Which Tripod should I keep?
I received two tripods for Christmas, and I have been looking around online but I can’t figure out which one is better. I took them both out of the box and they have the exact same features, they’re just different heights and brands. They are: Dynex 60″ and Zeiko 72″

Any suggestions about which brand you think is higher quality or will hold up to wear and tear better?

Answer: Why not just use both of them for a short while? People research about a product online before they get one so they won’t make a mistake because they couldn’t try it out first, but you already have them, just use them each for a month or two and decide.

You may even want to keep both. One for normal use, another one put in the back of your car (if you drive) and have it as standby where ever you go. No harm having more than one tripod.

For the beginning photographer with a point and shoot camera, the choice of camera lenses is often not an issue. This is because the average digital or film camera does not permit the photographer to change the lenses that they are using. However once someone has begun to delve more seriously into photography they may choose a camera where interchanging lenses is a possibility. Then, picking the right lens for the shot that you are trying to get becomes an important consideration.

There is a large difference between the popular point and shoot camera which has a fixed lens and a single lens reflex or SLR camera. This second type of camera is much more expensive because it has high performance features intended for a serious photographer. With any lens, the image is formed when light is allowed in through the end of the lens. That light then either strikes a digital sensor or a film plane. There are many excellent film based SLR models on the market but these are rapidly being overtaken by digital cameras.

If you will be doing a lot of shooting you will want to invest in specialized lenses over time. However, your average shooter requires just one lens to get them started. For regular shooting conditions, you want one with a focal length of between 35 and 70 mm.

There are a few things which make this lens more generalized than others. The first is that the focal length generally does not cause much if any image distortion which can be great for standard, posed photographs in regular conditions. The second is that it allows you to shoot in a wider range of light conditions than some of the other lenses.

Many people find that they love shooting birds or wildlife. If you are shooting these kinds of subjects you need to look into purchasing equipment which can handle fast movement and shooting over longer distances than other subjects. The same choice that you purchase for animals will also work very well for sporting events. Look for a focal length that starts at about one hundred and fifty millimeters and goes to more than three hundred millimeters.

The fact that you can take a picture very quickly with the above length of focus is important when shooting sports or wildlife. There is often a lot of action in these pictures so being able to snap pictures fast is important. However you may find that shooting with this focal length may mean that you do not get a wide view of the terrain around you.

If you want to shoot images of things like buildings you may want a wide angle lens. Buildings may call for a very small focal length and landscapes can have a longer focal length. This is because you want to get a lot of the scenery in but not get a lot of distortion. The balance between perspective and the amount of an image you can capture with a lens has been a bit of a balancing act for many years.

Once you start collecting camera lenses you may find it difficult to stop. However, despite the fun things you can do with your collection you will often find that there is one to which you return time and time again.

Visit our blog for great advice and tips. For the beginning photographer with a point and shoot camera, the selection of camera lenses is normally not an issue. This is because the average digital or film camera does not permit the photographer to change the lense.

Camera Lenses FAQ:

Question: I find choosing camera lenses very confusing. Can you suggest a good prime lens?
That I would use for group portraits? I have a 24-70mm, a 70-200 and a 70-300. Want to purchase a new one.

Answer: First of all NONE of the listed lenses are “prime” lenses. Prime lenses are NON-zoom lenses, single focal length lenses like a 50 mm or 85 mm lens.

Maybe you meant to say primary lens. For group portraits the 24-70 mm is the only one you can use. To use a 70 mm lens (medium telephoto) on a group would mean you would have to stand back about fifty feet or more. Group portraits require a wide angle lens of some type.

Question: What does physics have to do with camera lenses?
Basically the applications of physics in camera Lens?

Answer: Physics explains why and how a camera lens works as it does. Light energy passing through the lens allowing the image to be processed, the curvature of the lens and how it reflects the colours of the spectrum for the machine to process.

Question: Why are some camera lenses really long?
I know of telephoto’s, but what is the purpose of such a long lens when the photographer is 15 feet from the subject?

Answer: It compresses the depth and throws the background out of focus. A telephoto is much better than a wide angle or normal lens for portraits too. It reduces distortion in peoples’ features.

Question: Will my old Minolta 35 mm lenses fit my new nikon d3000 camera?
Can I buy an adapter to make them fit?

Answer: A Minolta mount isn’t a Nikon mount. The Minolta lenses may fit Sony DSLRs. Sony bought Minolta and kept the original Maxxum mount now sold as Sony Alpha.

You would have to check if there are adapters available to use Minolta lenses on a Nikon body. They definitely wont fit directly.

Question: Are SLR Camera Lenses Universal?
I’m thinking about buying a Digital SLR camera. I’m in the early stages of my research and curious to know if the lenses are universal. Meaning, will a Canon lense fit a Pentax camera?

Answer: That is a definite no. Each camera manufacture uses a different type of lens mount. Yes, Canon, Nikon and others have “bayonet” mounts… But each manufacture makes them differently. That is why you have to choose your SLR or DSLR very carefully. Because once you buy the body, you’re limited to using only the lenses made specifically for that line of camera (Nikon, Pentax, Canon, etc.). HOWEVER, Sigma, Tamron, Viviter and several other companies do make lenses for most (D)SLR’S. They do this by building the basic lens with mounts for different makes of SLR’s. But once the lens is manufactured, you cannot mount that lens on just any camera, it can only be mounted on the mount it was built for.

Question: Cleaning Service For Camera/Lenses@ Best Buy?
Do you really need to buy a service plan(warranty) with Best Buy to clean your lenses and or camera? Or could you just come in and ask them to clean it? If this is the case, how much is it?

Answer: All you need to clean a camera lens is lens paper. You can find it at any professional camera shop. It usually costs around 3 to 4 dollars for a pad of twenty sheets. If you buy the cleaning service at Best Buy your basically just paying for them to take a piece of lens paper and wipe off the camera lens for you.

Question: What does this mean when buying a camera lens?
When you are looking to buy a camera lense for a DSLR and it is speaking about how the lens is, say, 17mm-85mm, what is that saying about the lens? I am unsure and would really like to know. Also, if you could refer me to any good lenses for the canon rebel xs that would be lovely.

Answer: Those numbers refer to the focal length and zoom range of your lens. The lower number provides a wider angle of view then roughly when zoomed to about 35mm you are in the area called the normal angle of view, similar to how the eye sees. Then higher than that you are starting to move into the telephoto range bringing things closer to your viewpoint than how the eye sees it.

In regards to other lenses, much of that will depend on what it is you are trying to do with your photography. I am going to assume that your Canon Rebel XS came with a 18-55mm lens, and if that is so then a good possibility is that a telephoto zoom lens would work well. There are zoom that go to 200mm and 300mm, if you want things far away to be as close as possible then the 300mm will get you a closer view then the 200mm.

Question: Camera lenses for dummies?
I’m looking to buy a nice camera instead of my crappy digital one (Any suggestions?) and they all talk about lenses like EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens and the EF-S 55mm-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS lens. I have no idea what that means! Will someone please explain it and tell me which one would be better and why? Also what does “SLR” mean?

Answer: EF-S is the type of lens mount (in this case, those two lenses can be used on Canon DSLRs with cropped sensors). 18-55mm/55-250mm is the focal length. f/# is the aperture, or how much light is let in (smaller apertures let in more light). IS stands for image stabilization which helps reduce camera shake (you’ll probably need this with longer telephoto lenses; with wider lenses you won’t really see that it’s necessary).
Neither of these lenses are better than the other – it mostly depends on what you’ll be shooting. 18-55mm is usually the lens that people start out with (since most entry-level DSLRs include it in the kit lens and it has a decent range for the price). 55-250 can be used to get a little closer than the 18-55mm can – it can be used to zoom in more.
SLR stands for single lens reflex. You’ll notice that in a lot of places, people mention DSLR instead of SLR. The D stands for digital. DSLRs/SLRs are cameras where you can change its lenses.

Buy DX lenses manufactured by Nikon after reviewing its compatibility factors. These lenses are primarily used to cover the smaller sensor of DX digital cameras. Although there are other high end regular lenses, but these are of special mention as well.

These lenses work well with FX cameras. They are also used on film or full-frame sensors that usually blacks out around the corners. FX cameras do have the feature of using smaller area in the center of their large sensors, which makes a DX lense more compatible with it. Although AF and metering compatibility varies from model to model, it’s a known fact that all Nikon lenses perform superb on digital cameras optically.

It’s true that all Nikon SLRs digital cameras use the famous Nikkor lenses for years, but the exclusive reason why DX ones are so popular is because of the available extra short focal lengths. This in turn helps all DX cameras to get wider lense views. Since these accessory is also known as G lense minus the aperture rings, they are not compatible with manual focus cameras.They are easily mountable on any Nikon and so to say are ideal particularly for DX digital cameras. All FX cameras that cut their sensors short do find good use for these lenses.

You can also shoot with the 10.5mm DX fisheye on FX camera or film in full-frame mode to see unexpected results. But before you do that I recommend you to set up a D3 properly to correct the center portion. Nikon DX format is here to stay for a long time in case of practically priced cameras.

If you are reading this, you might be a professional or an amateur photographer. Feel free to Buy DX Lenses or find deals for digital cameras and related accessories.
Here is where you can buy Nikon DX Lense and cameras or read extended review for the same.

DX Lenses FAQ:

Question: The Nikon DX lenses oppose to the normal ones?
What’s the difference? I have a D200. I will have to get the DX ones right or am I wrong there? I can use any Nikon lenses right?

Answer: Lenses designated “DX” are designed specifically for the smaller DX sensor in your camera. If you think there is any possibility of someday upgrading to the full-frame “FX” cameras like the Nikon D3 or D700 then don’t buy DX lenses. They simply will not cover the full FX frame.

Question: Would it be wiser to get a full frame camera, rather than invest more on DX lenses?
I was going to buy a wide angle lens(around 900 dollars) for my nikon D80, but now I’m thinking it’d be better to get the nikon D700 and start using full frame lenses, and to just keep my current D80 with 18-200mm lens as a back-up. So are the full frame cameras and lenses a better long term investment?

Answer: I think you need to ask yourself this question: “Am I going to be a professional photographer?” If that is your goal then the D700 would be justified. If it isn’t your goal then your D80 should suffice.

Do keep in mind, however, that Nikon’s “DX” lenses can be used with the D700, D3 and D3x. The image will be the same size as your D80 sensor but you can use them.

You can also use Nikon’s “FX” (full-frame) lenses on your D80. Buying “FX” lenses now and using them on your D80 might be the best choice so if you do upgrade to a D700 you’ll be ready.

Question: What are the differences between the Nikon DX lenses and all the other lenses Nikon offers?

Answer: Basically DX lenses produce a smaller projection onto the digital sensor (the one that has replaced the frame of film that light used to be projected through the lens onto). This was made for the midrange and entry level dSLR cameras.

You can still use a DX lens on an FX camera; but it will cut the edges off of the image (crop) and the image will not take full advantage of the megapixel resolution of that FX camera. This is probably not a concern of yours unless you plan on going into very high-end professional photography very soon. If you are looking at a D40, D60, D70, D80, D90, D200, D300… then DX lenses will work great.

Question: Can someone clarify a question regarding a Nikon DX lens on an FX camera?
If I was to put (for example) a 50mm DX lens on a FX camera do I understand correctly that the focal length would remain 50mm however the image will be smaller due to the DX crop of the lens. Not that I really want to do this I am just keen to get my head around the whole DX/FX/crop thing.

Answer: The focal length is a property of the lens itself – it has nothing to do with the camera you use it on.

Nikon DX lenses have a smaller image circle than regular lenses and for this reason you don’t *want* to use a DX lens on a full frame sensor (or on a Nikon film camera). It would result in massive vignetting, i.e. black edges.

All Nikon digital SLR bodies, with the exception of the D700, D3 and D3X have a sensor that is smaller than a frame of 35mm film – DX lenses with their relatively small image circle cover these sensors just fine. With a regular lens, DX sensors only use the central part of the lens’ image circle.

So with a 50mm lens on an FX body you use the whole image circle and you get a normal field of view. With a 50mm lens on a DX body you only use the central part of the image circle and you get a moderate telephoto.

The crop factor is 1.5. This means that a 50mm lens on a DX body provides the same field of view as a 50mm x 1.5 = 75mm lens on an FX body.

Question: Can I use a DX lens on a FX camera without losing ISO range?
The biggest advantage of FX (full-frame) cameras, in my opinion, is their increased ISO range (ISO 6400, etc.) I understand that resolution is lost when a DX lens is used on a FX camera (ie: Nikon D700 and D3). What about ISO? Is ISO range lost as well when a DX lens is used?

Answer: No. ISO is an intrinsic property of the sensor and the electronics. Nothing about the lens will change that. You lose resolution with the DX lens because it only shines enough light on the sensor to cover the area of a DX sensor. Since FX sensors are bigger the parts not getting hit by light essentially get cropped off.

Question: I was told that the D80 is a DX camera & can use Film lenses? Is that true?
I just ordered a lens & found out that it was a 35mm lens instead of a Digital lens
But someone just told me that since my D80 is a DX camera that it will work with film lenses – I find that hard to believe. Is that true?

Answer: You can use the film full frame lenses on any digital camera that will accept the fitting but you can’t use a cropped sensor lens from a digital camera on a film camera.

Question: DX lenses on a FULL FRAME?
If I use a dx lens on my D700 is it going to be the same mm or? For example 10-24mm DX lens will give me a REAL 10-20mm OR? (crop factor will effect as 15-30mm)

Answer: Nikon’s full-frame DSLRs have a setting to allow using the DX lenses. The image size will be identical to that of a DX sensor camera like the D90.

I stole this from the Nikon site: “When the (DX format) lens is mounted on a Nikon FX-format DSLR with the image area in the shooting menu set to Auto DX crop (default), DX crop is selected automatically.”

Since the FX sensor DSLR crops to the DX size then your 10-24mm DX lens will be the same as it is on a DX sensor camera – 15-36mm. At least that’s how I understand it.

Question: What happens when I use a DX nikkor lens to a 35mm nikon body?
Nikkon suggests not using a dx lens to a film slr but what happens anyway if I do?

Answer: DX lenses are used of cropped framed sensors, 35mm cameras have full frame sensors. So, if you put a cropped framed lens on a full frame body, you’re going to get vignetting, the circular lines on the sides and corners of your film photographs. It will physically fit on the camera, but it’s not meant to be on it, and your images will come back majorly vignetted. And, if this is an old 35mm camera, you couldn’t use it at all, because the aperture closes itself when it’s detached from the DX body, and when it’s put on there, it won’t open.

Do you know how much the best bird lens for a Canon DSLR costs? You could buy a new car… or a bird lens for your Canon.

I’ll just come right out and tell you that the very best one you can buy is the 600mm. And, yes, it costs more than $11,000.

But we are talking cheap here. So forget that $11K beast until you win the lottery.

There are a few less expensive lenses that will do a really good job, but they also cost upwards of $5,000. So… what’s a photographer on a budget supposed to do?

There are a couple of solutions to the problem that won’t cost you thousands of dollars and your first born child.

First, there are a few lenses that will do the job for much less than those listed above. Of course, if you are going to pay less, you will have to realize that the results will not match up, especially if you are going to go trekking through the wild, toting you camera and gear. (One of the suggestions is to NOT go trekking, but have the wildlife – the birds – trek to you.)

You can opt for a shorter range piece of glass. There are some great lenses in the “under 400mm category” that will give you some really good shots. Here are a few that you might consider:

Canon 300mm f/4.0 L IS USM – this one costs a little over $1000. Sure, that might be more than you paid for your DSLR, but if you want results in this area, you will have to make some concessions monetarily.

Canon 100-400mm f/4.0-5.6L IS USM – another gem that runs about $1500. Photographers who own this baby absolutely LOVE IT. Most would not trade it for anything.

Sigma 150-500mm f/5.6-6.3 – notice the 500mm number. That is way good. The lens has gotten some really good reviews from folks who use it. The one thing about this puppy is that you will need some pretty decent light because it does not have a very large aperture to start with. So, lots of light and a tripod will be assets when using this one. Cost is under $1000 – yippee!

I save the best for last. You can take great photos with bird lenses that are not even considered by most people in this category. How? you might ask.

The secret is that you get the little feathered creatures to come to you. Set up a smorgasbord of delights for them to feast upon. And do it in a way that you can get the best images ever.

My personal setup is right outside my kitchen window. I have a deck that I attached some cut up branches to. I drilled holes into the branches to make feeding stations. Then I situated my feeders in such a way as to allow me the very best angle possible. It took a little tweaking, but the final setup works really well.

And here’s the best part. I use my Canon 70-200mm f/4.0 USM lens. This little thing only cost me about $500. I can also use my newest Sigma 18-250mm lens to take the shots when birds come too close for the other one.

A little work on your part can save you lots of cash. Plus it will keep you in the comfort of your own home where you can enjoy some great photography and a cup of coffee.

For more about these great bird lenses for Canon DSLRs, visit http://www.digital-photographic-resources.com.

Happy Shooting!

Bird Lens FAQ:

Question: What’s a good lens for taking bird pictures?
I have a 2000 Rebel EOS SLR. I want to take good pictures of birds, but can’t with the lens I have now, a 28-80 mm. I don’t know much about photography or lens, but I want one that zooms in a lot from a far distance and quickly so I can get good shots of birds. What kind should I get? Oh and my budget is around $250 or less.

Answer: If you could double your budget, I’d say to get the Zoom Telephoto EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens , because that “IS” really helps.

A similar lens by Canon without the “IS” is the Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III USM Autofocus Lens that sells for $190 at B&H Photo.

Question: Lens question for bird photography?
By next month I am going to bharatpur for bird photography, I have 70-300 mm sigma lens. I want to know weather 300 mm will be enough zoom to take good bids shots?

Answer: If it’s all you have, then it has to be good enough. I know a few people who have used that lens for birding and had decent results so it should be ok.
The maximum aperture of the lens at 300mm isn’t very wide so if it’s not very sunny, pay attention to the shutter speed you’re getting when taking the shots and adjust the ISO if necessary. If it drops too low you risk blurring if the bird moves and I’ve heard they do! Also, if you can, select the most sensitive autofocus point. For example, my 30D has an autofocus point at the centre which is more accurate than the others around it so if I want to ensure accurate focusing I use that one. Read your manual to see if your camera has something similar.

Question: I have a Nikkon D40x, what is a good lens for shooting birds that are far away?
I love taking pictures of birds, and I occasionally get a rare one in my yard. What is a good lens that will focus right up on the bird?

Answer: You’ll need a long telephoto, in the 300 to 400mm range, if not longer. A great, though not inexpensive option would be the Nikon 80-400. One of the Nikon 70-300 lenses would be OK, but it might not be long enough for what you’re looking for. Keep in mind that most wildlife photographers often use 400mm to 600mm lenses, if not longer, to get very tight, isolated shots of birds and other animals. Get as close as you can without startling the birds, and make sure you’re at the longest zoom length, and good luck.

Question: A New Bird Photography Lens?
I have a Nikon D40x w/18-55mm + Sigma APO 70-300m. I am looking for a telephoto zoom to upgrade to for bird photography. I have had the 70-300mm for a year now and over 200mm it goes a bit soft, also I was looking for a little more reach. I have considered the Sigma APO 150-500mm OS. This lens would be great, but I don’t know how much the slow aperture would effect my photos. I have also considered The Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 or the Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 VR. If I bought one of these then I could use a TC for the extra reach when I needed it. I would be grateful for any suggestions.

Answer: At the longer focal lengths you will need to use a tripod. I use an 18-200 Nikkor and a 70-300 and after talking to Natural history and sports specialists I would be looking for a fixed focal length,ideally around f2.8 at least 500 mm lens,that way you could safely use a 2X converter. A good prime lens would be better than a zoom in this area.
These would give you a 750mm and 1500mm equivalent for your work. In this range Nikkors are expensive,so you may be considering either a Sigma, or Tamron, unless you could pick up a second hand Nikkor. earthboundlight is a website for Nikon Natural History and has lots of good links for compatibility with your model.

Question: Which lens to use with a Nikon D60 camera?
I am new to DSLR and have just purchased a Nikon D60 camera. I would like to take pictures of wildlife eg birds and what lens would you advise me to use.

Answer: For wildlife you are going to need a lens that is at least 300mm.

For the D60, you must get a lens with a built-in focusing motor (AFS or third-party equivalent) in order for the lens to autofocus.

Question: Canon Zoom telephoto EF 75-300 mm f/4-5.6 III telephoto zoom lens, good for bird photography?
It’s in my price range and my current lens is 28-80mm. where’s the cheapest place to buy it? and there’s also another one with a USM, what is a USM auto focus lens?

Answer: A 75-300 sounds good but I think you’re going to need a monopod/tripod, especially if you’re going to use the 300 mm end a lot.

The cheapest place… you can compare from one website to another. Personally I prefer bhphotovideo.com and choose the Imported version (they physically have no differences except from the warranty, one official warranty and the other is store warranty).

An Ultrasonic Motor will give you for a quicker and quieter focus. Glass wise, I think there are no differences.

Question: 50 mm lens: what is that mean? How much distance? ?
I am planning to buy a digital SLR. I will use it to take photo of birds (say 400/500 meter distance) and flowers (close distance say 1 or 2 meter). I am unsure what lens should I choose? If it says 18mm or 50 mm lens what is that mean? How much distance?

Answer: Won’t go into all the technical detail.

A 50mm lens on a Dslr (or “old” 35mm film camera) is what is known as “standard” in that it gives the closest view to what your eye would see.
So that would be not a lot of good for pictures of birds 4-500 meters away as you would not see them in the picture.

Effectively the lower the number the wider the angle of view (and the further away distant objects will seem)

To take pictures of birds at the sort of distance you are talking about you would need a very long lens – from 400mm upwards. These get pretty pricey.

To take close up pictures then you need a “macro” lens.
These can be different focal lengths but I would suggest something around 105mm.

You can get adaptors which will increase the focal length so for instance if you had a 200mm lens with a 2x adapter the lens would then become a 400mm lens. these are often cheaper than getting a long lens but the quality can drop significantly.

Hope that helps better than the technical jargon.

Question: Bird watchers what digital camera equipment do you recommend for a beginning birder?
I see you taking pics of eagles in fields. What kind of cameras and lenses have you?

Answer: There are some excellent reasonably priced digital zoom cameras on the market now. Really good ones. I am a Canon fan myself. It is my opinion that you want a camera with a view finder. The problem with cameras that do not have a view finder is that the view screen gets washed out in bright sun light and you can’t see squat. The really serious photo birders use an SLR with a very expensive telephoto lens but it is not absolutely required to get decent photos.

There are two Canon cameras that you might consider that are not SLRs.

1. PowerShot SX10 about $325 on the internet. It has a 20x zoom lens to 560mm.

2. PowerShot SX1 is a new camera. It is very similar to the SX10 but has a different image senor that is faster.

Nikon makes some nice cameras also. Coolpix P80 has a 18x zoom lens to 486mm. It does take special rechargeable batteries whereas the Canon takes regular AA batteries. It costs about the same.

When the lights are dim and you need to take a good picture of someone, you need camera flash units for the purpose. These are units that provide a flash when you click your camera to light up the subject and surrounding area. In this way, the light focuses on the subject and you’re able to get a better picture which is clear and bright despite the dark.

Camera flash units are mounted on digital cameras that don’t come with independent or in-built flash units. These units are fairly effective for lighting a large area whether indoors or outdoors. It’s best to use this when you’re taking pictures indoors because the lack of lighting can make your pictures appear dim and lose focus. There’s also the possibility of not capturing the mood and effect of a picture if you don’t use the flash effectively.

These units are usually used by professional photographers who want to ensure that their photographs come out bright and sharp. The unit can also be timed to go off at a specific moment by using the timer on the camera. You can also mount your camera on a tripod and take a family photo with the timer to flash at about 10 or 15 seconds interval.

You can’t use conventional units with pocket cameras or instant cameras. These are not suitable for the high precision equipment of a unit such as this. They are also not designed to have added external units connected to them. Hence camera flash units are best paired with digital cameras or standalone cameras.

When you’re thinking of taking pictures in the dark, make sure you use good camera flash units to light up the area. Your picture will appear better and sharper with a focused light shining on the subject matter.

For more information on camera flash units, click on the link now! Find out how a camera flash unit can help you today!

Camera Flash Units FAQ:

Question: What does the AF-TTL stand for when referring to Camera flash units?

Answer: AF is, of course, auto focus. TTL, used in referring to flash, is Off-Sensor (or film) Flash Metering. A camera with I-TTL or E-TTL (different companies use different prefixes) and a compatible flash is an excellent combination for creative control. The camera actually controls the flash so your selection of f-stops is whatever you choose within the capabilities of the flash.

Before Minolta invented TTL way back in 1981 with the introduction of the X-700 and X-570 cameras and the “PX” series of flash units, you were usually limited to 3 or 4 f-stops when using a flash.

Buy the top of the line flash offered by your camera company for your camera. Buy a good off-camera flash bracket.

READ & STUDY the Owner’s Manual for the flash and the section on “Using Flash” in the manual for your camera.

Question: What do the red and blue switch settings mean on a camera flash unit?
There’s usually a switch somewhere with white or M, a red dot and a blue dot, then a sliding range/f stop guide on the back.

Answer: M is manual. It gives you full flash power. The red and blue are automatic settings. Look at the guide for distance from flash to subject, and use the appropriate flash setting. One will give you more power, which is good for a longer flash to subject distance. The one with lower power is good for closer subjects.

Question: Is there any way to adjust or filter an off camera flash unit, to emit a UV or blacklight?
I’m thinking not, but wanted some opinions. Just looking for something easily portable, for the neon effect of some materials. I have shop lights with blacklights, but wouldn’t mind something portable in a case.

Answer: Unlike IR light, UV light is relatively unused for photography.

The effect you’re looking for is actually when things fluoresce under UV light. That is, they emit light of a different colour when exposed to UV light. The only way to get enough UV onto the materials is through the use of a continuous light. There are portable versions available.

Question: I need a flash unit for a Cosina C1s SLR camera. What flash units are compatible and still on sale?

Answer: Just about any flash should work on that camera as it doesn’t use TTL control of the flash. A VIVITAR 285HV is a relatively cheap flash with good performance. Any camera that supports manual mode and or thyristor should work fine.

Question: Why do people buy expensive flash units for a few hundred dollars then use them on camera?
What about $50 for a single off camera flash set up, and $20 for addition flash units and IR receivers? For $100 they could put together a portable 3 flash set up? (stands extra)

Answer: Often, its simply not possible to lug around a 3 light set up like you describe. Sure its great for studio use. Admittedly, it is ideal to have the flash off camera but it isn’t always practical. I would rather be taking a picture of Hoff with my SB800 in the shoe than using the built-in, mediocre pop-up flash.

Question: What settings would you use for a digital camera and flash unit for an indoor party at night?
I want to take some photos at a party at night in a hall, what would you set your iso, speed and f stop at, and would you use full flash or stop it down a bit, I don’t want washed out faces?

Answer: In that situation I would just put it in the “Green Square” mode and go for it. A good camera with TTL metering and a compatibly made OEM flash unit will generally not blow-out the faces in that mode.

If it does seem to wash out faces then put it in the “P” mode and dial down the flash a bit. With digital, a little bit of underexposure is far better than overexposure. Use the lowest ISO for best color and low noise.

As you become drunker and drunker the “Green Square” mode will become even more important.

Question: Should I get a slave unit flash for my camera?
I have a Fujifilm S1000FD, which is a very good camera btw. However my camera has an ‘OK’ flash on it but I want something where I can have multiple flashes going off at the same time from a different location, to light an area if you like. Are slave units what I should be looking for or do I need to look elsewhere?

Answer: I use a Fuji 9000 (P&S) and a Rebel XS 1000D. I have two slave units to go with them. They can be very handy in certain situations because, as you noted, most on board flash units aren’t very strong.

If you get a slave I’d recommend you get two because you’re going to end up with heavy light to one side. Another point, Ritz camera has some nice units and I’d recommend the ones that will do Red Eye, that is ignore the first flash and respond to the second. I write this because of a long story which is two detailed to write here but that I’d be glad to share if you want.

Bottom line is I find they work very well for me and provide all the light I need in darker situations. Set up takes some time so there’s no getting the shot quickly.

Question: What kind of flash unit does my camera need?
I just got an old Yashica FX-7 from a friend but it doesn’t have a flash unit. So I was wondering what kind I could get for it and where I could find it.

Answer: A Vivitar 283 or 285 would work fine on your FX-7. They are plentiful on eBay.